Posts Tagged ‘how’

How To Replace A Kitchen Tap

Tuesday, December 6th, 2011

Replacing a kitchen tap really isn’t that hard, a lot of people are put off as they think about changing the taps as “plumbing” or have seen to many comedies whee the water goes uncontrollably everywhere.

I want to talk you through the simple steps of replacing your kitchen taps the right way using minimal effort and know how.

The first thing you need to get is an adjustable spanner and a flat headed screw driver. Once you have these we can then begin removing your current taps ready to fit your new ones.

The first thing we do is turn off the water, this is where our flat headed screw comes in handy. You need to go into the cupboard below the sink and coming down through where the taps are should be two pipes, these supply your hot and cold water feeds.

If you follow the pipes down there should be a valve on each one, there should be a slit where you can insert your screwdriver and turn the valve to the left. This should of turned the water supply off, just runs the taps to make sure, you will get some water coming through but should stop once the pipes have emptied.

Above the valves should be a nut which you undo using your adjustable spanner, undo the nuts until the pipes become loose and free from the the rest of the system. Then undo the nut below the work surface which holds the taps in place, once you have done this you will then be able to remove your taps by simply lifting them out.

You then drop your new kitchen tap in place of the old and and reverse the process we just went through. Remember to turn the valves back on by using your screwdriver and turning the valve to the right.

Run the taps just to make sure everything is fine and then that’s it, job done.

How To Clean Disc Cartridges In Taps

Monday, April 19th, 2010

How To Clean Disc Cartridges In Taps

At chrome-tapshower.co.uk we don’t just sell high end taps and showers we also provide information and tips on how to maintain your appliances. This article was written by one of our team members so if you have any questions or would like to add to this article then just leave a comment at the bottom of this post.

Ceramic disc cartridges are made with two ceramic discs each with two holes (for mixers) or 1 hole (for pillar or 2 handle taps) in it. One disc moves with the tap handle and the other disc remains in position. When these holes are aligned, the water is allowed to flow. In the off position, the holes are no longer aligned and the water stops.

These regulate the flow of water from your tap. It can happen that small particles get stuck in the disc assembly and you must clean the cartridge. In extreme cases you must replace the cartridge but obviously it is better to clean the cartridge before replacing it.

1. Turn off the water supply. Place a cloth over the waste hole to catch any small screws or parts that may accidentally drop into the basin/sink as you work.

2. Remove the cartridge

3. Examine the cartridge. Clean and rinse the seals, openings and cylinder. If a seal is damaged then replace it

4. Remove mineral deposits stuck on the ceramic discs. A drop of food coloring may reveal a cracked ceramic disc. If you see a crack you must replace the cartridge

5. Reassemble and test. Ensure the tap is in the ‘on’ position and slowly turn the water supply back on. Too much pressure too fast can harm the discs in the cartridge

6. If the tap still leaks you need to replace the old cartridge

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Kitchen Mixer Taps
Taps and Shower

Backflow problems and how to prevent it

Tuesday, December 22nd, 2009

Backflow – a reversal of the normal flow of water in a pipe system – can have comical results. In the late 1960s wine flowed through the taps of the surprised and delighted residents of Cincinnati, USA, when a local winery left a water supply valve open after flushing its fermentation tanks. But backflow can also be dangerous, causing drinking water contamination… or worse. For example, a maintenance man connected a large liquid petroleum gas tank to a water main to wash it out. Unbeknown to him, there was still gas under pressure in the tank. By opening the water supply valve, he back pressurised the water supply main with gas, causing three nearby houses to explode. There are horror stories in the hvac market too. In one case, water backflowed into the air conditioning system of a Philadelphia hotel, resulting in conditions that fostered the growth of the bacteria that cause Legionnaires’ Disease.

These examples are extreme. But backflow is a real threat – the US Environmental Protection Agency reckons that at least 100,000 cases of cross contamination occur in the USA every day. That makes it a pressing health & safety issue, and its prevention a priority.

Backflow is caused by one of two factors

* Back siphonage, which occurs when the pressure on the supply end of a water pipe drops dramatically. This causes a vacuum which can suck fluids back through connections upstream thus contaminating the water system.

* Back pressure, the result of reversed water pressure on an outlet from a water main connection exceeding the mains supply pressure.

One solution to these problems is the reduced pressure zone (RPZ) valve. It employs spring check valves create an intermediate zone of pressure that is lower than the supply pressure. If back pressure builds up and the outlet check valve fails to hold, the intermediate zone will pressurise and cause a relief valve to open, draining the entire assembly, thus preventing possible contamination back into the supply.

Installers in the USA have used RPZ valves since the early 1970s when Watts Industries launched its 909 RPZ. Now the British Government has decided to allow their use in this country. The new Water Regulations which replace the Model Water Byelaws free installers to fit RPZ valves here for the first time.

Until these regulations, UK installers have had to install a break tank with a ball valve. However, pressure is lost from the mains with this arrangement so a pump also has to be fitted complete with a level switch to control the pump. This is complex, bulky and expensive, compared with the RPZ valve.

The RPZ valve can only be operated once its type of protective use has been approved by the local Water Regulations Inspector and its correct fitting and operation has been independently checked by one of the 150+ RPZ-licensed inspectors operating in the UK. However, its simplicity, low cost compared to break tanks and ease of installation make it an attractive option for installers

How To Fit Kitchen Wall Units

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

How To Fit Kitchen Wall Units

Fitting kitchen cupboards requires some carpentry skills and some common sense but most of all it requires that you know the basics of how and why you are doing what you are told to do by the instructions. This is because most units are put together the same way or at least using the same principles and as long as you are aware of this you can cope quite easily with any of the slight variances that exist between all the different suppliers.

How To Fit Kitchen Wall Units

Complete UnitsSome kitchen wall units are hung onto brackets and others are screwed through the back or sides. The ones that are supposed to be screwed through the back or sides will always have special strengthening timbers fitted or they will be made up of 15mm boards. You should never attempt to hold up a unit by screwing through a flimsy hardboard back.

How To Fit Kitchen Wall Units

In this project we install two of each kind of kitchen wall unit. Two with hanging brackets at each side and two (horizontal) units which screw directly to the wall. These are also fixed to the units which are hung. The blue colour is the protective wrapping these units come with.

The first job is to set out your units properly. Wall units are usually fitted or hung with the bottom of the unit 600mm above the worktop to give enough head height for working on the worktop. The first job with hung units is to work out where the wall brackets will go. The manufacturers instructions will show you the distance from the bottom of the unit to the hanging bracket in the unit and this can be marked on the wall, along with the distance between the brackets. If you have a lot of wall units to hang its a great idea to mark the height of the wall unit brackets at both ends of the wall and ping a line between them using a chalk line.

How To Fit Kitchen Wall Units

Once you have the height of the wall brackets marked, refer to our projects on fixing to plasterboard or fixing to masonry depending on your wall type and fix them in position.

Once the wall brackets are fixed you can fix the cupboard brackets inside the cupboard. The back board of the wall unit will have two cut outs for the hanging arm of the bracket to fit through. There are two screws at the back of the internal wall unit bracket. One adjusts the height of the bracket for fine tuning on the wall and the other pulls the unit in towards the wall to keep it tight against it.

For this project we now had to fit two horizontal units which did not come with hanging brackets. We fixed through the back after setting out the height and marking it on the wall as we did with the wall unit brackets. They were then fixed as shown in our fixing to masonry project. For additional strength we fixed screws into the horizontal units through the inside of the vertical units but to make sure this did not look unsightly we put the screws in behind the hinges.

The left hand image shows the holes which are in place for the hinge to be fixed to and we have placed a screw in between these to fix through to the vertical unit. Using simple tricks like this keeps every job neat and tidy as well as doubling up on safety and strength. Always make sure your units are plumb and level with a spirit level. If they are not it makes fitting the doors properly very hard work indeed.

How To Fit Kitchen Wall Units

How To Unblock a Toilet Or Drain

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

How To Unblock a Toilet Or Drain

Unblocking toilets etc can be a relatively easy, but still dirty job. The key here, as with 99% of jobs in the building and DIY world, is to have the right tools. It is also necessary to wear a very good pair of rubber gloves. We will not go into the diseases toilets and waste pipes can carry, but trust us, you do not want any of them!

A sink, bath, basin and shower tray can be unblocked in a few ways. An ordinary plunger can be used by placing it over the plug hole and pushing up and down on the handle. This creates a force in both directions, compression as you push down and suction as you release. The idea here is that the blockage is dislodged and breaks up allowing it to flow down the drain. For blocked drains in Luton Bedfordshire please see Drain Cleaner Luton.

How To Unblock a Toilet Or Drain

For an easier way to unblock sinks etc, you can now use what is known as a power plunger. This (centre) tool is simply “pumped up” by pumping the handle at the end and placed over the plug hole. By pressing the trigger all the compressed air is released, forcing the blockage down the pipe or breaking it into bits.

Our personal favourite at Diydoctor is the one on the right, the water injector. Put some water in the sink, basin, bath or shower tray and stand the pump in it. Pull up on the handle to fill it with water. Then place it over the plug hole and push down hard, then pull up again etc etc. The water is pushed at great force through the blockage, and then by sucking up again, the forces explained in the first example with the plunger are put into operation.

Finally, for sinks, basins, baths and showers, there is the corkscrew cable. The flexible wire is pushed into the drain pipe, wiggled about to break up the blockage, and wound back in. Very simple, very effective.

Corkscrew Cable

For unblocking toilets, the blue plunger at the top is the tool to use if you think your blockage is in the U bend at the back of the toilet. The action is exactly the same, push and pull to break up the blockage. For blockages which appear to be further down it may be necessary to open the manhole to inspect and clear. You may have a visible soil and vent pipe (SVP) coming out of your bathroom which you can follow down to the ground and look around for the nearest manhole to it. It may not be the one and further checks may be needed. There are two types of manhole for the purposes of this project. The surface water manholes which collect water from your rain gutters, and the foul water manholes which collect the waste water from the sinks, basins, baths, showers and toilets. These will smell so identification should not be too much of a problem. Although your toilet may be blocked there is a chance that some seepage is occurring through the blockage and you may need to identify this to see which manhole it is running into. This can be done by adding a little dye into the water and watching at the various manholes to trace the flow.

How To Unblock a Toilet Or Drain

Once you have traced the manhole or manholes you may well be able to rod back up towards the house. Drain rods come in lengths of one meter and are screwed together to make a long length. They are very flexible and are simply inserted into the drain pipe and pushed into the run. You will feel when you meet a blockage and you should then prod the blockage with the rod. Drain rods come with various fittings to screw on the end which, in theory, make the removal of blockages easier. We always start with nothing except the rod, prodding and poking until the obstacle (usually loads of toilet paper or nappies) clears. Occasionally we have had to use a worm screw (this comes with the set). Sometimes you may not feel a blockage as it is either too far or too soft to register. Then its time to screw on the rubber plunger. Use the rods then as a giant plunger, pushing and pulling up and down the pipe. This will create the same pressures again as mentioned above and release the blockage.

Usually a brick built structure (modern manholes are sometimes formed with precast concrete rings) with a sloping floor called benching, which slopes down into a half pipe shape called a channel. After carefully removing the manhole cover which can sometimes be very heavy, the rods should be screwed together one at a time and pushed into the drain pipe. Sometimes if your pipe is well blocked, the channel and benching may be covered in water making the drain hole difficult to see…Poke around with the rod until you find the entrance.

A word of warning: some manholes can be quite deep. These manholes are normally fitted with iron steps built into the sides of the brickwork or concrete. This is obviously for climbing down…BUT; manholes are very dangerous places as the gasses they contain can be overpowering. Do not go down into a manhole without someone at the top to make sure you are ok…Sounds very silly in your own back garden, but professional builders have drowned in manholes because they were overcome by the fumes.

Very occasionally you will meet a blockage which cannot be reached from the toilet end or from the manhole end. This means it may well be in the soil and vent pipe itself. Most of these will have access plates, which should be undone very very carefully for obvious reasons. A lot of SVP’s will be boxed in and this can cause real disruption. If you cannot unblock the drain/pipes etc by your self and you feel you have established that the blockage is in your SVP then I’m afraid it may be time to call a plumber. The mess that can be created by this kind of blockage is something you really do not want to deal with if you are not sure of what you are doing.

One last word of warning. Drain rods will screw together in a normal clockwise way. When you are rodding a drain, the rods will turn in your hand, its impossible to stop them….Make sure you deliberately turn the rods as you push and prod and make sure you are turning them clockwise. If you do not do this, and without you realising the rods are slipping anti-clockwise in your hands, they can undo themselves. Leaving a length of drain rod in your waste pipe will not help your blockage we can promise you that.

How To Unblock a Toilet Or Drain