This can be a problem in a lot of homes and can happen anytime, not knowing what a ‘water hammer’ is can be a downfall to fixing the problem. This is how a ‘water hammer’ is caused.

A Ball valve is what controls the cisterns for your tank and toilets when cold water is entered, hot water flows from your emersion which makes the cold water from the tank to replace it. Incoming flow is managed by a float, this inclines the water allowing the valve to shut once the tank is full which is a similar technique to when you flush the toilet. As cold water rushes into the cistern it causes the water to vibrate forming ripples, the float is then constantly moving up and down which opens and closes the valve. This vibration on the arm of the float within the valve is what makes the ‘water hammer’, this causes pressure behind the valve when shut because water is trying to flow through the pipes in such a high speed that it builds up. The more pressure it gains, forms a pressure wave which moves up and down the pipe changing the energy into friction causing the hammering noise.

Firstly you must check that the pipe is secure whether its against a joist or a surface, once that’s confirmed you can now start to get rid of this problem. Find an empty yogurt pot and tie it to the arm of the float with metal wire that will not rust. Position the yoghurt pot slightly below the water line, as this will cause enough weight to stop the reverberating but will still allow the arm to rise.

You have now fixed the problem and water can easily flow through your pipes.

If you don’t fix the problem of a leaking radiator, you could end up with your floorboards or carpets ruined. This problem should be mended quickly. Find out if the leaking is caused by something else rather the the valve, if not then soak up the water around the valve and place tissue paper at different parts so your able to see where the leaking is coming from. It’s important to carry out this procedure as water can drip somewhere else making it difficult to find the the original problem.

If you can find the leak coming from the spindle then tighten the gland nut by using a spanner, if that doesn’t work then detach the nut and cover the area down to the spindle in PTFE tape. If the leak is located at the coupling towards the pipe then slightly tighten the nut more as this may be the only mishap, if that fails then drain the radiator and remove the cap nut so that you can take the fitting off and change the olive. Before re-tightening the cap nut, cover PFTE tape around the olive or rub silicone sealant onto it. Corrosion is another reason why i leak may happen, if you leak is because of this then you must fit a new radiator. For a temporary repair, use plastic resin filler where it’s damaged.

If you need to repair the valve then you need to drain the system, making sure the new valve is the same type as the damaged one. Undo the cap nuts connecting the water pipe to the valve using an adjustable spanner but use a wrench to support the body of the valve. At the end of the radiator you should find more cap nuts connecting the adapter in the end to the valve, remove these cap nuts and take the valve out. Also from the radiator, remove the valve adapter and clean the threads in the end. Using PTFE tape, wrap it around the thread of the new adapter and screw into the end of the radiator with a spanner to tighten. Move the new olive and valve cap nut to the other end of the pipe and install the valve,  using a wrench hold the valve and line it up with the adapter. Now tighten the cap nuts holding the water pipe to the valve as well as the other ones holding the valve to the adapter. You have now repaired your leaking radiator, check for any leaks and if needed tighten the nuts more.

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When the weather is in severe conditions and it’s temperatures below Celsius, the water form into ice and stretches the pipes. Unlike plastic pipes, metal ones are more vulnerable to frost damage. Stainless steel pipes and copper ones also are not as exposed as lead pipes. When the water is unable to move along the pipes because it’s frozen, the pressure made is capable of making a joint open up or bursting the pipe. Ice at various sections of the pipes can also stop water flowing along the pipe. Depending on what type of metal your pipe is, finding out will establish the time and skill you will need for you to fix it. Before you start make sure cut off the water supply and that you drain the pipes from any excess water.

With lead piping you should use lead-to-copper compression fittings so that they can join the plastic or copper pipe to the lead pipe, then cut a little portion of the pipe with a hacksaw. Now using the same principle you would use for any compression fitting, connect the Leadloc fitting to the lead pipe followed by attaching the plastic or copper pipe to the opposite side of the fitting. You can now turn the water supply on and run the water through the pipes, make sure there isn’t any water dripping from the pipes.

If your dealing with copper piping and you have found that it’s damaged slightly, then remove the part that’s split and move the slip end from the coupling onto a pipe end. Push that nearer to the opposite end and detach the compression nuts, moving them and the olives at both ends along the pipe. Use pipe-jointing compound first, then reattach the olives and nuts tight with a spanner. Turn the water supply back on and allow the water to flow through the pipes, checking that there’s not any leaks.

If your having problems with flushing your toilet then there is only 2 reason why, these reasons are either the flush diaphragm is damaged or your flush handle is not attached to the device found in the cistern. A cistern lets water flow through the valve situated inside itself. There are 2 types of valves that both have the same similar function, the Torbeck valve and the Ball valve. Controlled by a valve, the water entrance is closed and opened by a lever which eventually becomes elevated and lowered by the water in the cistern.

When the water is in the cistern the device used for flushing causes the water to come out again, the most common mechanism for this is the toilet siphon. This is a handle joint to a wire connected to the top of the flush siphon, once the wire is pulled the diaphragm is pulled upwards on the frame. Water is unable to be released due to the frame found under the flush diaphragm so instead it rasied up and over into the flush pipe and flows directly into the toilet bowl.

Now the problem with having a damaged diaphragm is the more you try to flush the toilet the more damaged it becomes, this is because the water pressure forces through the damamged part disallowing any resistance when the diaphragm is drawn up the chamber. But not to worry as a damaged diaphragm can be changed with a fully working 1, to do this cut off the water to the cistern and flush the toilet catching any excess water with a sponge. When the cistern is empty, disconnect the flush unit from the handle arm and unscrew the back nut found underneath the cistern. Pull out the flush unit and detach the connection clip so that you can pull the frame holding the diaphragm clear. Now remove the old diaphragm, use the new 1 selected and re-assemble all the pieces to have a working diaphragm leading to a working toilet.

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A very popular question submitted to chrome-tapshowers.co.uk is ” How can I stop my basin/shower gurgling when I pull the plug out?”. To solve this problem its a good idea to know what causes the problem.

The water leaves the basin and begins its run into the trap underneath. This trap has water in it which stops smells coming back up through the pipes into the room through the plughole. When the water from the basin passes through the trap, it begins its run to the main waste pipe and out into the external manholes and main sewers. Some of this journey is made through (inside the building) vertical pipes and sometimes through pipes which have rather more than the 1 in 40 slope which is recommended for foul water drainage. This encourages the water to run very quickly and sometimes this causes a vacuum behind the flow. This vacuum sucks at the water which remains in the trap. Most often this “sucking” causes the water in the trap to bubble and gurgle – hence the gurgling noise. Sometimes the water is sucked out of the trap completely and this is when foul gasses can get back into the room.

Fitting an air inlet valve is easy. The pipe from the trap can be cut (as near to the trap as possible) and a Tee piece inserted. The pipes in the image above have been solvent welded together put with pipes that push-fit together the principle is exactly the same. The air inlet valve is then fixed to the top of a vertical length of pipe from the Tee piece.

When the valve is fitted the water runs away as before but instead of the vacuum sucking water from the trap it just sucks air which is admitted through the valves. This allows the water to run away noiselessly from basin, bath and shower. See our major project on air admittance valves for details of larger valves for toilets.

How To Fix The Gurgling Sound Coming From The Shower, Bath, and Sink

The most common reason for leakages behind baths and shower trays is movement in the fitting itself (along with obvious broken tiles etc) and the first thing to check is that your fitting is secure…There should be an absolute minimum of movement in either fitting and with a shower tray it is advisable to fit a resin, rather than a plastic, one…Baths can be secured, while in place, by removing the bath panel and, (if it is a steel bath) securing through the under-hanging bath lip to the wall after making sure the feet are firmly screwed to the base and all connections on the frame are firm. Please see our project on replacing a bathroom suite at theReplacing a Bathroom Suite Project. If the bath is plastic, you will need to make up some timber “bearers” ( 2inch x 1inch treated timber) . Cut the timber to lengths of 400mm and plug and screw them firmly under the edge of the bath, between the main body of the bath and the end walls. There is just room to get in at either end but it is a struggle!!  Its is also sensible to apply a liberal amount of very strong construction adhesive to the back of each bearer…A bearer can be placed under the edge of the bath at both ends as well. You will not be able to drill, plug and screw these as there is no room, but if you use the adhesive above and find a way of wedging the bearers in place until the adhesive is dry, you will get on further movement.

When the bath is secure it will no doubt need re-sealing.  It rarely works for long to keep placing new sealant over the old. Strip off the old adhesive using a sealant remover. This comes in a tube, as does the sealant, and is applied by mastic gun. When you have removed the sealant, use a rag dipped in solvent thinners or white spirit to wipe all surfaces clean. (wear gloves for this operation and open the windows to allow the vapour to disperse) This will de-grease the top of the bath or shower tray and also the tiles. Leave to dry for a few hours and then apply a high modulas sealant. You can now be sure of good adhesion and hopefully a trouble free joint.

It is also worth checking the grout to your tiles at this point. The smallest pinhole in the grout will suck water in behind the tiles, where it will filter through the adhesive and onto the floor below the bath. This kind of leak is not even visible until it has done a fair bit of damage…if you find any grout that is suspect; use a grout rake to rake off the top few mm. You can then mix and apply a new filling and be sure the joints are full. See our bathroom project for grouting instructions.

How To Fix A Leaking Bath Or Shower