Archive for the ‘Plumbing Tips’ Category

Are You A plumber Or Fitter Looking For Work

Monday, April 19th, 2010

Are You A plumber Or Fitter Looking For Work

As we offer a lot of products that get used by local trades everyday we thought it would be nice to add a section within our site promoting the plumbers and bathroom/kitchen fitters that use our site and products.

We plan to put a list together which will be accessable by the public and will hold the contact details for local trades in your area. We will try to cover all areas but it is down to the tradesman to contact us if he wishes to be listed on our site. If you want to be listed on our sites its fairly straight forward, all you need to do is have a quick word with our customer support team either by e-mail or phone providing them with your contact details and we will review it and get it listed.

As a taps specialist based in the uk we only supply our stock to uk residents and trade workers around the united kingdom so that is why our local trades page will only have contact details for workers based here. We do offer discounts to tradesman as they tend to buy in bulk, but for our normal customers you’ll see that our prices are the best around anyway.

Backflow problems and how to prevent it

Tuesday, December 22nd, 2009

Backflow – a reversal of the normal flow of water in a pipe system – can have comical results. In the late 1960s wine flowed through the taps of the surprised and delighted residents of Cincinnati, USA, when a local winery left a water supply valve open after flushing its fermentation tanks. But backflow can also be dangerous, causing drinking water contamination… or worse. For example, a maintenance man connected a large liquid petroleum gas tank to a water main to wash it out. Unbeknown to him, there was still gas under pressure in the tank. By opening the water supply valve, he back pressurised the water supply main with gas, causing three nearby houses to explode. There are horror stories in the hvac market too. In one case, water backflowed into the air conditioning system of a Philadelphia hotel, resulting in conditions that fostered the growth of the bacteria that cause Legionnaires’ Disease.

These examples are extreme. But backflow is a real threat – the US Environmental Protection Agency reckons that at least 100,000 cases of cross contamination occur in the USA every day. That makes it a pressing health & safety issue, and its prevention a priority.

Backflow is caused by one of two factors

* Back siphonage, which occurs when the pressure on the supply end of a water pipe drops dramatically. This causes a vacuum which can suck fluids back through connections upstream thus contaminating the water system.

* Back pressure, the result of reversed water pressure on an outlet from a water main connection exceeding the mains supply pressure.

One solution to these problems is the reduced pressure zone (RPZ) valve. It employs spring check valves create an intermediate zone of pressure that is lower than the supply pressure. If back pressure builds up and the outlet check valve fails to hold, the intermediate zone will pressurise and cause a relief valve to open, draining the entire assembly, thus preventing possible contamination back into the supply.

Installers in the USA have used RPZ valves since the early 1970s when Watts Industries launched its 909 RPZ. Now the British Government has decided to allow their use in this country. The new Water Regulations which replace the Model Water Byelaws free installers to fit RPZ valves here for the first time.

Until these regulations, UK installers have had to install a break tank with a ball valve. However, pressure is lost from the mains with this arrangement so a pump also has to be fitted complete with a level switch to control the pump. This is complex, bulky and expensive, compared with the RPZ valve.

The RPZ valve can only be operated once its type of protective use has been approved by the local Water Regulations Inspector and its correct fitting and operation has been independently checked by one of the 150+ RPZ-licensed inspectors operating in the UK. However, its simplicity, low cost compared to break tanks and ease of installation make it an attractive option for installers

How To Regulate Water Pressure by Chrome-tapshower.co.uk

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

How To Regulate Water Pressure

Water pressure is sometimes out of the hands of the homeowner. Depending on the type of pipes you have, where you get your water from, and the utilities in your home, you could either have low water pressure, or even lower water pressure.

Water pressure can be regulated in a few ways, but if you are on municipal water, then you will want to be very careful playing around with your pressure. Rural areas that rely on well water can be a little more free with their pressure, but are limited by the initial water pressure coming from the ground.

Check With Water Company
Begin by checking with your water company to see how much pressure they are sending into your home. Most of the time this pressure is between 175 and 250 pounds. This type of pressure can not be handled by appliances in the home and would injure anyone trying to shower in it. A standard home pressure should be set between 50 and 70 pounds.

Increase Pressure At Main Pipe
Most utility companies will place a regulator on the main pipe coming into your home with a water pressure reducing valve. You can regulate this by using a simple gage you can purchase at your local home center. Hook to your drain for the hot water heater and you can monitor, and change the pressure.

Caution
It is our first thought to increase the pressure a lot, but it is important to keep in mind that water pressure, it too high can hurt and severely injure someone, especially a small child. High water pressure can also burst pipes and cause other damage.

Kitchen Mixer Taps

Troubleshooting Gas Water Heaters

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

Knowing how to light the pilot is one key to living with a gas water heater; see the instructions on the tank. For safety, a gas heater has a thermocouple. This is thermoelectric device that impinges on the pilot flame and shuts off the gas if the pilot light goes out. The gas flame should be blue. If it’s orange, adjust the shutter; if it’s still orange, call for service.

Twice a year, inspect the flue assembly to be sure it’s properly aligned and all its joints are sealed. Then check the flue by placing your hand near the draft diverter (with the burner on); air flowing out indicates an obstruction that should be removed. Every year or two, shut off the gas, remove the access panel, and clean the burner ports, using stiff wire or a needle. If you ever smell gas, get out of the house immediately and call the gas company.

There is no hot water.
Check for:

Unlit pilot light.
Pilot light won’t keep burning.
Clogged burner
Defective thermocouple.
The gas is not coming out.
Remedies:

Carefully relight the pilot.
Make sure the gas controls are completely turned on. Then check the thermocouple and be sure it is firmly connected to the gas control unit and positioned near the pilot flame.
Call a qualified contractor.
Replace the thermocouple.
Call the Gas Company.
There isn’t enough hot water.
Check for:

Incorrectly set thermostat.
Defective thermostat.
Exposed hot water pipes
Too small of a water tank
Clogged burner.
Sediment has formed in the tank.
Leaking hot water faucets.
Remedies:

Turn the thermostat higher.
Call a qualified contractor.
Insulate the hot water pipes.
Install a larger water tank.
Call a qualified contractor.
Turn off the gas and drain the tank.
Repair or replace the faucets.
The water heater is very noisy.
Check for:

Scale and sediments in the tank.
Remedy:

Turn off the gas and drain the tank.
The water is too hot.
Check for:

Wrong setting on thermostat.
Defective thermostat.
Blocked exhaust vent.
Remedies:

Reset the thermostat.
Call a qualified contractor.
Check the vent and clear it.
Water is leaking from the heater.
Check for:

Leak in the draincock.
Leaking safety valve.
Hole in the tank.
Leak in the plumbing connection.
Remedies:

Close it tightly or replace it.
Check the water temperature. If it’s too hot, the thermostat may be broken. If the safety valve is defective, replace it.
Buy a new water heater.
Call a plumber.

Showers